Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.